Only Human

People are people everywhere. Itโ€™s a cliche, a platitude. Itโ€™s also as true as it is not.

Iโ€™ve lived in an Islamic country. An experience like that is where you learn that both the liberal and the conservative verities are both really fucking ludicrous.

People in different civilizational contexts really do think and perceive the world very differently. I can cite so many examples. Most Americans who declaim they are experts on Islamic matters have barely spent any time in the Islamic world, have not crawled the streets like I have, have not walked through neighborhoods they werenโ€™t quite sure theyโ€™d walk out of alive.

I can read and understand (probably better than they can) all their pseudo-intellectual stotting, but they canโ€™t tell me shit about what itโ€™s like being there, meeting people, separated by inches of space but light years of perception.

โ€œInshallah!โ€

I heard that word (actually phrase, but itโ€™s said as a single word) all the time. When a taxi pulled out into traffic recklessly without even checking, when a boatman just decided to proceed despite knowing the depth, when AK-47s were fired into the night sky: โ€œInshallah!โ€

It basically means, โ€œIf Allah wills it.โ€

Because Iโ€™m not a politically correct milquetoast Obama-style pushover, Iโ€™d argue with the taxi driver. โ€œNot inshallah! Fucking look, man! Do you see Allah in this damn taxi? Iโ€™m lookinโ€™, ainโ€™t no Allah!โ€ Iโ€™d say. It didnโ€™t work. It didnโ€™t matter. He (and it was always a he) would just glare at me and keep โ€œinshallahingโ€ all over the road.

I hung out with this translator nearly every day in Egypt. She was one of the few women there. We ganged up because we had a lot in common and importantly I wasnโ€™t trying to get into her pants.

The key: she was a translator and spoke very fluent Arabic. She taught me some, but Iโ€™ve mostly forgotten it by now. However, she was fair-haired, blue eyes, pale white. No one in Egypt ever guessed she probably knew more Arabic than they did.

Anyway, it was always funny watching her walk into male-dominated spaces, have them say the most vile things about her in Arabic, and then hear her reply in perfect Arabic, โ€œI donโ€™t think youโ€™re man enough to do anything like that.โ€ That was a bit dangerous but it was so funny it was worth it every time. (I always marvel that Iโ€™m still alive. Every day Iโ€™m always like, โ€œIsnโ€™t that cooool?โ€)

But they still treated her like a trained dog or pond scum. Anyone who says Islamic society actually respects women by forcing them into hijabs, burqas and the like probably has never been in the room with many members of an Islamic society and a woman, especially an intelligent and powerful woman like she was.

Hard to believe anything I read or hear in the press โ€” liberal or conservative โ€” because Iโ€™ve seen the vast gulf between their authoritative banalities and the reality of being present.

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